Be careful how you use the word “barbecue.”Barbecue can be used as a noun to describe a piece of equipment for cooking outdoors or to describe a gathering of folks for an outdoor party where barbecues are used to cook the food. “But barbecue also is a verb,” says Robert St. John, CEO, president and executive chef of three restaurants in Mississippi.
The author of “New South Grilling: Fresh and Exciting Recipes from the Third Coast” (Hyperion, $29.95) says that grilling and barbecuing are not the same. Grilling means cooking over live coals — quickly — while barbecue means slow-cooked smoked meat, usually cuts that are too tough to grill, such as pork butt, beef brisket, ribs, whole pigs and turkeys.
“A true barbecue guy is offended by the word ‘grilling,’ ” says Arthur Cohen, the owner of Pittsburgh Barbecue Co., 1000 Banksville Road, Banksville. “Our ribs don’t touch a grill. They are just smoked.” Like the pros, the company has a proprietary homemade rub with 16 spices and serves its top-secret barbecue sauce on the side instead of slapping it on meat or chicken right before removing it from the smokers. It’s considered a condiment or dip.
You won’t find Cohen in the kitchen or at a smoker, however. He’s the marketing guy, the person who brings in the business. “Most caterers are people with a passion for food, but they aren’t knowledgeable about the business side,” he says. “I grew up knowing what good food is.”
Pittsburgh Barbecue’s heroes are the employees, Cohen adds — among them, Landon Ray, manager and multitasker; Jim Salva, king of ribs; and Rick Nethen, the chicken guy. They also can barbecue a pig in a portable smoker that resembles a black coffin and haul it to parties here and yon.
Pittsburgh Barbecue Co. makes Carolina-style barbecue, which, St. John says, is “long on bold flavors.” Typical sauces there have a base of cider vinegar or mustard, while farther north and west, tomatoes are the foundation.
Folks who like to cook outdoors and have a grill with a sturdy lid can easily transform it into a barbecue, says Dan Huntley, co-author with Lisa Grace Lednicer of “Extreme Barbecue: Smokin’ Rigs and Real Good Recipes” (Chronicle Books LLC, $18.95 paperback). Huntley, who lives in South Carolina on the border of North Carolina, is a columnist for the Charlotte Observer newspaper. He fell in love with smoking and barbecue when he was a commercial fisherman in the Florida Keys. Now he travels nationwide to do it.
“The basics are time plus fire plus wood plus smoke,” Huntley says. “You are slowing down the cooking process until the muscle fiber in (tougher cuts) break down and the meat is tender.” Better cuts, such as steaks and chops and chicken breasts, never should be barbecued, because they are more suited for quick high-heat cooking. So are hot dogs and hamburgers.
Barbecuing involves cooking with indirect heat — never over coals or a live fire, although chicken initially might be seared. Cohen says his team cooks meats at a temperature of about 220 degrees to a finished internal temperature of 190 to 195 degrees. Barbecuing starts at 4 a.m. so the meats will be fork-tender and juicy by 11 a.m., when the company’s retail shop opens on Thursdays through Sundays. Cohen goes through as many as 1,500 pounds of pork ribs every week.
Huntley, who has seven cookers in his backyard, suggests a temperature of 185 to 210 degrees for cooking to an internal temperature of 195 degrees.
“You need that (long cooking) time to allow the smoke to permeate the meat,” says St. John, whose restaurants are the Purple Parrot Cafe, the Crescent City Grill and the Mahogany Bar in Hattiesburg and Meridian, Miss. “You can use wood chips when you grill (over fire), but the smoke flavor is just on the surface.”
The barbecue’s lid is vital to success, because it regulates the heat and helps to incorporate smoke into the meat, St. John adds.
“It captures the smoke and moisture, and it makes it a lot more efficient at controlling the heat and humidity.” Huntley says.
Huntley suggests that home cooks start their barbecue adventure with a pork butt, also called Boston shoulder roast, Boston roast, Boston butt, shoulder butt or shoulder blade roast, until they get the hang of smoking. “Ribs are hard, because they are thin,” he says.
“Use wood that is local. I don’t use juniper because I don’t have it. I use hickory, which is preferred in the Carolinas, as well as pecan, oak, apple and cherry. But be careful about hickory — too much causes a bitter taste.” (People who would like to try a pecan wood flavor can soak pecan shells in water, then throw them onto the fire.)
Select a spice rub and cover the meat thoroughly with it, then refrigerate, wrapped in plastic wrap, for about 12 hours. You will need a drip pan and wood chunks or chips and charcoal if you are not going to build a hardwood fire. More charcoal or hardwood will need to be added during the cooking time to maintain a steady low heat.
Huntley suggests starting the fire with 15 to 20 coals on each side of the grill; the drip box should be placed away from the coals; pour in a liquid, such as beer or water with lemon slices in it, before the grid is placed on top. Wood or chips should be soaked for about 20 minutes before putting onto the low coals.
Meat should not be placed — fat-side up — over the fire, but to the side of the barbecue grid over the drip box. Close the lid and let cook until done, for five to six to eight hours, or until the temperature reaches 195 degrees on a meat thermometer, adding more coals as necessary. The pork fat will be rendered into the drip box. An hour before the meat is done, wrap it in aluminum foil and close the lid again, letting it steam to perfect tenderness for about 1 hour.
Bring out the forks, spoons, barbecue sauce, buns, baked beans, macaroni salad, coleslaw and lots of napkins to serve. Knives should not be necessary, however, says Huntley, adding, “I have buddies who say that if you use a knife on pork barbecue, you didn’t do it right.”
Safe barbecue
In their book, “Extreme Barbecue” (Chronicle Books LLC), authors Dan Huntley and Lisa Grace Lednicer offer these tips for a safe and sound barbecue.
• Use big leather gloves, preferably welder’s gloves, which also protect the forearms, rather than regular oven mitts. Leather aprons are a good idea, too, because cotton aprons can catch fire.
• Do not grill barefoot, lest you step on a hot coal while carrying a platter of meat. If you must wear flip-flops, try it, but you probably won’t continue doing so after you have dropped lava-colored coals on the top of your bare foot.
• Alcohol and fire are a dangerous mix, because cooks who have had a bit too much to drink have been known to lose control of the fire, the meat and their dinner party. Everything in moderation until the guests are served.
• Garden hose, garden hose, garden hose. If one is not nearby, get a fire extinguisher and a 5-gallon bucket of water. A fire’s best antidote is water.
BBQ Ribs
Robert St. John — CEO, president and executive chef of the Purple Parrot Cafe, the Crescent City Grill and the Mahogany Bar in Hattiesburg and Meridian, Miss. — offers this recipe in his book “New South Grilling” (Hyperion, $29.95).
• 3 full racks of pork spareribs, 3 to 4 pounds each (3-inch/down)
• 2 cups white vinegar
• 1/2 cup paprika
• 1/4 cup garlic powder
• 2 tablespoons onion powder
• 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons kosher salt
• 1/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar
• 1/3 cup granulated sugar
• 1 tablespoon Creole Seasoning, recipe follows
• BBQ Sauce, recipe follows
Place the ribs in a large roasting pan or baking dish and pour the vinegar over them. Using your hand, rub all of the ribs with the vinegar and allow them to marinate for 1 hour. Drain the vinegar and dry each rack completely, using paper towels.
Combine the spices, sugars and Creole Seasoning and coat the ribs completely with the mixture. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
Prepare the grill. Cook the ribs over indirect low heat for 2 1/2 to 3 hours or until they begin to pull away from the tips of the bones and the entire rack bends easily when held in the middle with a pair of tongs. Serve the ribs dry with BBQ Sauce on the side.
Makes 6 to 8 servings.
Creole Seasoning
• 1/2 cup seasoned salt, such as Lawry’s
• 2 tablespoons onion powder
• 2 tablespoons paprika
• 1 tablespoon cayenne pepper
• 1 tablespoon ground white pepper
• 1 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon dry mustard
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano leaves
• 1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
Combine all ingredients. Store leftovers in a sealed container in a cool, dry place.
Makes 1 cup.
BBQ Sauce
• 2 tablespoons bacon fat
• 2 tablespoons dried minced onions
• 2 teaspoons minced fresh garlic
• 1/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1/4 cup molasses
• 2 cups chicken stock
• 1 quart ketchup
• 1 1/2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 2 tablespoons dry mustard
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice
• 1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce
• 1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
• 1/2 cup cider vinegar
Heat the oven to 300 degrees.
In a 3-quart Dutch oven, heat the bacon fat over low heat. Add the dried onions and garlic and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the remaining ingredients and place the sauce in the oven. Bake for 2 hours, stirring every 15 minutes.
Use to baste ribs during the last hour of cooking, or serve on the side. Refrigerate leftovers, or freeze for longer shelf life.
Makes 8 to 10 servings.
Jerry’s Smoked Brisket
This recipe is from “Extreme Barbecue: Smokin’ Rigs and Real Good Recipes” by Dan Huntley and Lisa Grace Lednicer (Chronicle Books LLC, $18.95 paperback). It was offered by Jerry Hines of Foster, Mo., who cooks meat on a grill fashioned from a discarded bulk milk tank from a dairy farm.
The authors write that “this is an amazingly simple recipe that relies almost entirely on time — it takes eight to 10 hours.”
“There’s no two ways about it. A brisket is a danged tough piece of meat, and the only real way to tenderize it is by cooking it a long time,” Hines says.
• 1/2 cup barbecue dry rub, purchased or homemade
• 1 beef brisket, about 10 pounds
• 1 cup tomato-based barbecue sauce of your choice
Build a fire in a smoker-grill for indirect heat. Maintain a temperature of 200 degrees.
Sprinkle the dry rub all over the brisket. Place the brisket in the smoker on the side opposite the coals and cook for 4 hours. Remove the brisket from the heat and let cool slightly, then cut the top half from the bottom half along the line of thick fat. Trim out the fat, then place the smaller part of the brisket on top.
Wrap the meat tightly in the foil and return it to the smoker. Cook for about 3 hours and 45 minutes longer. Remove from the heat and let rest for 20 minutes. Remove the foil and cut the brisket against the grain into long pieces. Serve with barbecue sauce on the side.
Makes 10 to 12 servings.
Southern Pork Barbecue Sandwich
This recipe is from
The National Pork Board. Use apple and hickory chips for best flavor.
• Kosher salt
• Coarse black pepper
• 1 whole boneless pork butt, 6 to 8 pounds
• 1 cup sweet Hungarian paprika
• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 2 large onions, chopped
• 1 tablespoon paprika
• 1 tablespoon chile powder
• 1 tablespoon crushed red pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 2 cans (28 ounces each) tomatoes, undrained
• 3 cups cider vinegar
• 1 bottle (14 ounces) ketchup
• 1/2 cup orange juice
• 1/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar
• 1/4 cup country-style brown mustard
• 12 large soft sandwich buns
Combine 1 cup kosher salt, 1 cup coarse ground pepper and the sweet paprika. Coat the pork butt evenly with the mixture. Prepare a smoker with apple and hickory chips and smoke the meat over a low fire for about 5 hours. Let cool slightly, and break the meat apart, using forks.
Heat the vegetable oil in a heavy saucepan and saute the onions until translucent. Stir in 1 tablespoon paprika, the chile powder, crushed red pepper, cumin and cayenne, and cook until fragrant, for about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, vinegar, ketchup, orange juice, brown sugar, mustard, 1 tablespoon salt and 1 tablespoon pepper.
Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is thick and coats the back of a spoon. Puree the sauce and let cool. The sauce can be made 2 or 3 days in advance and refrigerated.
To serve, combine the pork and sauce in a large saucepan. Heat through, stirring over medium-low heat. Pile the sauced pork on buns.
Makes 12 servings.
Massachusetts Smoked Turkey Breast
• 1 bag (6 ounces) sweetened dried cranberries
• 3 tablespoons dried tarragon
• 4 cups soaked fruitwood chips
• 1 fresh whole turkey breast, 4 to 7 pounds
Prepare a grill or smoker according to manufacturer’s directions.
Put the cranberries in a mini food processor or blender and pulse until the cranberries are finely minced. In a medium bowl, mix the minced cranberries and tarragon. Gently loosen the skin on the turkey breast and spread the cranberry mixture directly onto the meat under the skin.
Place the wood chips in a smoker box over direct medium-high heat in the grill. Put the turkey breast on the other side of the grid (indirect heat), close the lid and smoke for about 20 minutes per pound or until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the breast registers 170 degrees.
Makes 4 to 6 servings.